Fashion, Evolved

As NYFW draws to a close, I’ve been reflecting on just how huge the fashion industry is.  There are literally hundreds of designers creating thousands of new pieces each year.  A small percentage of those are ‘green’ designers, but they are absolutely making a dent in the industry by demanding the highest standards of fabrics, construction and manufacturing–growing their lines with grassroots marketing.

I’d like to show off the Fall/Winter 2009 lines of some of my favorite green designers.  These collections may seem to have very little in common when taken at first glance.  But they are all the same where it counts:  Their makers have constructed them with a higher purpose.

The following collections are either on sale now or will be within the next few weeks.

Brook There

You can read my feature post about Brook There, the homegrown line that is “inspired by the idea that ‘there’ often represents a place we’d rather be, and that fashion is the vehicle that can transport you from fantasy to reality, or from here to there.”

Spun

My interview with Sara Seumae of Spun is a glimpse into what it takes to startup a new label.  Her line is deceptively simple.  They look very “ordinary” on the hanger, but when you put them on they fit beautifully–and they are extremely versatile.

Doie

Named after the designer’s fashionable grandmother, Doie is eternally feminine, hip and colorful.  In an eco fashion world that seems to be obsessed with neutrals and minimalistic lines, Doie stands apart as sheer loveliness.

Elena Garcia

Elena Garcia blends daring design, traditional techniques, and luxurious, eco-friendly textiles to create beautiful, timeless pieces for women of all ages.   As Garcia finds her inspiration from the world around her, she believes it is her responsibility to protect and preserve this world in which she lives.

Ivana Helsinki

IVANAhelsinki is an independent art& fashion brand. It brings delicately together Slavic rough melancholity and pure Scandinavian moods. It´s balancing between white arctic summer nights and endless winter sadness. Eerie hovering isolation and intense starkness.  IVANAhelsinki has been the only Scandinavian women’s wear brand ever to be accepted to the official Paris Fashion Week “IN” Show calendar.

Kelly B

The intention behind Kelly B is to create unique and comfortable clothing for the conscious consumer.  Kelly’s first two lines have been produced with all organic cotton and other natural fibers including bamboo and organic cotton.

Lela

Lela is a collection of sportswear made manufactured in Canada, made with the top-of-the-line fabrics that are environmentally-sensitive and milled exclusively for the designers.

Nature Vs. Future

Nature Vs. Future designs are a self-generated product of imagination blended with the designer’s passions–architecture, furniture, music & art.  Working with the body as the palette, balance, line quality, rhythm & movement are incorporated into each piece.

Nixxi

Simplicity embodied  in clean silhouettes and organic fibers.

Prairie Underground

Prairie Underground was conceived as populist clothing for serious, daily wear.  Each piece is designed to be multipurpose and defines a new category of dress, one that crosses the boundaries of active wear and loungewear and redefines day to night dressing.

She Bible

She Bible started in the kitchen with a hand-made screen printing press and has grown into a cut and sew label offering reliably sexy and comfy pieces perfect for kicking up dirt and kicking up your heels. All goods are sewn and printed in San Francisco.

Two of Hearts

Inspired by color blocking and abstract paintings by Mondrian, Two of Hearts’ fall line embraces the modern art house look with pops of vibrant colour. Designed to be easy-to-wear and easy-to-layer, the collection lends itself nicely to the stylish and artsy woman’s wardrobe.

Mountains of the Moon

Check out my feature post about Mountains of  the Moon and it’s designer Melissa Baswell. MotM is a fresh, youthful line with an established online presence.  It manages to be both hip and feminine without compromising its ethics.

Last year I introduced you to a brand new label called M641. Woman-owned, ethical and conscious, M641 has garnered a loyal following among women who demand more from their wardrobe than just a stylish outfit or two. The co-owners and designers Ina and Subu have graciously given me a preview of their Fall/Winter 2009 line and spent some time answering a few questions about their budding young company:

1.  Describe your style aesthetic using three words.

City. Polished.  Free.

2.  Where do you draw your inspiration for your designs?

Love, motherhood, friendship, commitment, loyalty and heritage. We are inspired by the female silhouette and by women of all walks of life with various roles. Our own friendship and personal roles influence us in our designs and our decision making. In Bharatanatyam, (classic South Indian dance) we are taught to create a space where the mind is free to explore and generate thoughts and ideas based on everything it is inspired by, without thinking. So, ideas flow like water without a beginning or an end. For Subu, this helps in attaining proper state of mind for design.

3.  What is it like collaborating on design as a team?

It’s just lovely; everyone should be open to collaborations in our opinion.  We both have similar sensibilities but to a varying degree. So getting each others ideas and feedback is critical to give our designs the obvious personality and character you see in the end result.

4.  What is your favorite piece your have produced so far?

Can a mother choose between her many many children and her children’s children?

5.  Tell me about your creative process.

It always starts with research & learning and then understanding. We research what we want to do next, forecasted trends and such…and learn from our past collections and feedback given. Then we understand where to step. After which comes the inspiration which as mentioned is found on a daily basis, and then it comes down to getting that vision on paper. We do design via sketch though not formally trained and then go to computer aided technologies, then back and forth with the ideas, colors, fabrics, trims until the design on paper matches the vision in the head.

6.  Who are some designers that you admire and why?

We must defer on this in a way. First to answer by saying our admiration lies with emerging designers. We think it would be terribly difficult to highlight one or two of them though. We’ve met so many great artists that there are just too many unique, genuine designers who deserve to be mentioned.

7.  What advice would you give to budding young designers that want to start up their own line?

Pick and carve out your corner of the industry—have your niche…and go with it wholeheartedly. Try to set out to solve a problem you personally have with fashion…and be the solution in the industry.  And, don’t feel like you need to spend loads of money advertising or marketing your product.  Reach out and find your market and ultimately your customer. Get yourself out there and be seen by anyone and everyone…then, in time, you can become selective. Patience and perseverance and of course a great partner!

8.  How has the internet impacted the way you have built your business?

Being situated in the mid-west with a label isn’t a plus point! That said, the internet is our friend. Internet and WOM marketing have enabled us to get where physically, we cannot. In this industry, where you bloom your brand can be vital to your business. We began showing our Collections with the use of the internet…a very non-traditional way for designers to do business. Fortunately for us, we have been successful in this decision and

Then there is this whole wonderful fashion-focused internet realm with great talent and mentors out there. We were warmly embraced. And with social media built in, it has allowed for a lil cult-like following for us. So actually, we’re really kinda everywhere now   Besides that, we are social butterflies IRL, so this amazing social media aspect of the internet has meant closing deals in record time and truly getting to know our customers. Best is our customers really get to know us too. No middle-man or fluff. WYSIWYG.  People in the biz know that being in fashion isn’t as glamorous as it appears. It means countless hours secluded behind your laptops. It means you feel isolated at times, especially since we’re not in LA or NY. So you can say that the reach out with the internet is vital to the health of this brand and to us!

9.  How do you see M641 evolving in the next few years?

We hope you will enjoy what we have in store. You’ll be hearing about our experimentations in different fabrications veering off a bit from our usual 100% woven cottons.  We have already begun adding in a few new subcategories to our separates to include bottoms. Specifically shorts for SS10. Most exciting is the partnership with a Showroom in LA for further visibility and growth of our brand.  Keep in touch with us along the way though to learn the latest!

10.  What has been your proudest moment since you launched M641?

We’re pretty simplistic gals. And to be honest, every single day we’re still in business, we feel proud. Perhaps a customer emails us after a purchase, sending along pics from an event where she wore an M641 design, we feel humbled and overjoyed by those. And recently we were offered to send pieces to Mrs. Ohio for her tour. But from a business standpoint, we feel pleased that the CEO of a major online retailer has asked to see our samples in NY where we’ll be showing SS10. Her interest speaks volumes about our reach and how far we’ve come.

A couple years ago, two nerdy gentlemen who work in the field of technology inadvertently set into motion a fashion chain reaction when they introduced their wives to one another.  From the time Ina and Subu met they hit it off famously.  Both were young mothers, and both had nerdy husbands.  Oh, and both of them loved fashion.

Fast forward a few years and behold the results of their first dynamic meeting:  Madras 641.

As an immigrant of South India, Subu’s family back home owns a textile factory and has been in business for over 30 years.  Her dream from childhood was to design her own label.  Both women are strict vegetarians, and they knew that any venture they started would have to be based on cruelty-free principles.  Additionally, Ina had a real passion for helping women and wanted to make sure they did not fall victim to the exploitative manufacturing practices that are so common in the fashion industry.

The two of them began working on their designs, and Subu contacted her family to set things in motion.  The factory where the garments are made employs 80% women, most of whom come from poor areas.  Subu’s family prides themselves on employing those who suffer from disabilities, training and educating them.  These women are provided with more than just an income–they also receive a marketable skill.  The factory itself has been certified by the government for its sustainability.

Ina and Subu have decided to place only two orders per year with the factory, thus drastically reducing the carbon emissions from manufacturing and shipping.  They avoid plastic whenever possible and have been experimenting with using hemp and paper tags, as well as cloth bags for packing the garments.  While the majority of their fabrics are not organic at this time, they are actively seeking out sustainable fabric alternatives to  augment their collection.

As if this wasn’t enough, take into consideration that the clothing is actually CUTE.  The designs are simple and chic but with delicate fabrics combining a modern look with ultimate femininity.

For a list of stores that stock Madras 641, visit their site.  While you’re there, check out the lookbook for the Fall/Winter 08 Collection.

With a passion for both fashion and ethics, Madras 641 is one of thousands of young companies that are leading a revolution in our economy.  Taking in to consideration the big questions, Ina and Subu are founding their company on more than just a bottom line.  Style and substance come together, allowing them to live their dream of making beautiful things for a beautiful world.